Review: 2004 Xia Guan Te Ji Tuo Cha (Sheng Puerh)

(Forgive the lack of pictures–Jing Tea Shop has nice ones of this tea up already if you’re interested and follow the link to their site.) 

Year: 2004, Spring

Producer: Xia Gua Tea Factory
Region: Shuang Mian tea area

Vendor: Jing Teashop

Leaf: Dry–dark mossy green, tightly compressed, small and broken leaves  Wet–shiny, brighter green, largely broken leaves

Scent: Dry scent–very ”bright” and slightly vegetal. Wet scent–”bright” scent remains, also something of a “cooked greens” smell, sort of spinach-esque

Liquour–Colour is orangey-brown but moved to a more appealing golden brown as it lightened.  Very smoky scent, slight floral/sweet overtones which increased as the infusions continued.  Slight pumpkin-y smell in the background early on.

Infusion Parameters: 5 grams in a 4oz (120mL) gaiwan, boiling water, one 20s rinse followed by brief rest, 20s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 25s, 45s, 35s, 35s, 45s

Tasting Notes:

Infusion 1:  20s. SMOKE!  Very dry–flash of bitterness, then this is gone quickly from the mouth.  No truly unpleasant aftertaste, just lots of dry, smoky “bite.”  I’ll admit, the hyper-green, hyper-dry, hyper-smoky scent/taste of this first infusion made my stomache flop a little…I was reminded heavily of a green tea steeped for about ten minutes in boiling water.

Infusion 2: 10s/flash infusion. Less smoke in the aroma, less “hyper-green”…same as above, slightly less bite.

Infusion 3: 10s/flash infusion.  Notably sweeter (although this is relative with stuff this raw and young!), more ethereal scent, less smoke.  More of a pleasant “green” taste, less bitter.  Still VERY dry and quick to “vanish” in the mouth.

Infusion 4: 10s/flash infusion.  For the first time in this infusion, I can taste a lingering flavour underneath that I think is the elusive “puerh” flavour I’ve tasted in shu puerh.  It’s different in the sheng, of course, but I can just on the edge of my mind feel the “connection” between shu and sheng, the familial taste that they share on some level, the taste of the tea.  Or, I’m crazy. :)  Taste/colour/scent more agreeable now, more “bright” smokyness in the aftertaste, somewhat less dry.

Infusion 5: 10s/flash infusion.  Scent is very bright and sweet–now there is definitely some sweetness in the tea, too, and much less fleeting dryness.  Still some smoke.

Infusion 6: 10s/flash infusion.  Thicker “feel” in mouth.  Am possibly granted a glimpse of where this puerh could “go” in 10-15 years–I can’t back up this feeling, it’s solely intuitive, but the sheng was very thick and sweet and deep and smooth for just a moment before it “bit” again.

Infusion 7: 10s/flash infusion.  “Floral” sweet scent, much sweeter taste.  The smoke is pretty well gone but some bite remains.

Infusion 8: 10s/flash infusion. As above, but thinner and with less bite.  The thin-ness tells me I can safely increase the infusion time now…

Infusion 9: 25s.  This stuff I could happily drink, yum!  Interesting dryness, rather like a satisfying white wine–a desirable dryness–is left, taste is sweet and “bright.”

Infusion 10: 45s.  The long infusion is due to the fact that I picked up the ferret and started dancing around with him (so sue me, Covenant’s “Call the Ships to Port” came on, and I love that song) and lost track of a few seconds…whoops.  See, I’m not professional taster material. :)  Flavour is still bright, less sweet, more bite and smoke…probably the infusion time.

Infusion 11: 35s.  Lighter liquor–really delicious taste.  Wish it came out like this from the get-go.  Hopefully when it is older…

Infusion 12: 35s.  Velvety soft, sweet, now *all* unpleasantness (too much smoke/dryness/bite) is gone.  This is lovely.

Infusion 13: 45s.  As above, but thinner and more delicate.

 I kept on after this for about five more infusions of 35-45 seconds, and it was really marvelous!  Not much “changed” in the taste, just got thinner.

Overall notes:

Wow.  If the tail infusions of this are the smooth, sweet, depth-of-flavour that I can look forward to in older sheng (either these samples I need to try or my own, someday), then I’m absolutely hooked.  It’s fascinating how the taste changes as you go!

I felt just wretched before taking this tea, due to allergies, but much better afterwards…probably just a psychological effect, but I’m not complaining!