Review: “American Breakfast” and “More Amor” Assams
September 7, 2006
Tea: “American Breakfast” and “More Amor”
Type: Assams
Vendor: The Simple Leaf
AMERICAN BREAKFAST:
Until this very moment, I did not really understand what people were talking about when they referred to Assams as “malty” at times.
Holy yum. I’m sitting here, just smelling the dry leaf of this ”American Breakfast” Assam tea by The Simple Leaf. I want very much to brew and drink this tea, as well, but right now I’m content to just be floored by the scent.
It’s “malty” in the sense of ever-so-slightly fermented sweet grain of the sort you can find being fed to horses, in my opinion. Not so much true “malt” as “sweet fermenting grain” of some variety. As usual, my strange “horse” and “barn” analogies are *compliments* to this tea, not marks against it. Smelling this reminds me very strongly of being little and visiting my aunt’s nice, clean horse barn early on a summer morning while she was doing the feeding.
Only, with a “tea” undercurrent.
Maybe a bit prosy–do forgive me, I have an atrophied brain due to being an English lit/Classics major. Still, I’m loving the scent of this tea.
It’s also very attractive–a dark, dark brown and very uniform, with little bits that I can only assume are portions of tightly rolled leaves and that remind me of Grape-Nuts, of all things. Super cute, and interesting, if a bit unusual.
The parameters were about a teaspoon of tea into about seven ounces of water just off the boil, for about two minutes in a single-serving Bodum coffee-press. These two minutes were a little confusing, since they were filled with…dancing Grape-Nuts. The little bits floated around and got bigger and puffier and Grape-Nuttier, but they didn’t “unfurl.”
Curious, I poured off the tea (nope, didn’t press it, no worries), which is a gorgeous coppery red-brown colour, clear and lovely. I then examined the little tea-bits and discovered that they were actually very small leaf pieces that were apparently pressed and formed into these cute, irregular little tea-bits. The bits disintegrated when prodded, but not in the water…intriuging.
The proof, of course, is in the tea, which was *super!* Honestly, I can’t remember the last time I got this excited about a black tea. I knew immediately upon drinking it that I wanted no milk or sugar–this tea needed none! It was very smooth, and very sweet, of all things. In fact, I did a double-take at first sip to see if I *had* added milk and sugar. This is a big deal for me, as black teas have always been a strong, slightly bitter milk-and-sugar delivery system, not a standalone. This is definitely a standalone.
There is only the tiniest bit of back-of-the throat tannic dryness to this tea–the rest is all smooth, sweet flavour. Tons of flavour, too, and a very full mouthfeel, not thin at all.
This tea is *holding my attention,* which heretofore has only been something that good greens, whites, an puerhs could do. Black tea was always like coffee or water–just another thing in a cup at my desk to drink unthinkingly. Turns out this wasn’t “black” tea’s fault…it was just a question of getting better black tea.
Seriously, though, miles away from teabags, miles! The wet tea leaves smell even more like the grainy-malty-loveliness I mentioned earlier.
(Confession: I made another cup. It takes milk and sugar quite well. I couldn’t resist! Still, I’m pleased and surprised to note that I like it *better* on its own.)
MORE AMOR:
Same malty scent in the bag, but more delicate, somehow. This tea is billed as a “Mild” where the American Breakfast was billed as a “Bold,” and it turns out that’s really the case.
The taste is similar in ethos (essential character, pardon my Greek) to the American Breakfast, so I have now begun to learn what makes an Assam an Assam. (This specific black tea stuff is completely new to me. I’m glad I’m starting with type-specific blends as opposed to, say, single plantation & flush pickings, as I think they would be utterly lost on me at this point.)
It is milder, though, and slightly thinner-feeling in the mouth. The sweetness is there, but not so pronounced, if only because the taste of the Assam maltiness is not so strong here. The tea is made up of smallish leaf-pieces which aren’t rolled or pressed this time–larger “chunks” of leaf than the American Breakfast, but they’re individual as opposed to collected into, umm, Grape-Nuts.
There’s a slight “golden” overtone as well, which is very pleasant. I’m sorry that I don’t know how to describe it other than “golden,” but I’m trying to address a certain warm-vegetative-cream-muted brightness, if that makes sense.
Another standalone and another very pleasant tea–this one strikes me as a possibility for a truly superior iced black tea. I think I preferred the strength and “punch” of the bolder American Breakfast, but this was nice, as well.
Apologies for the posting delay…
September 4, 2006
…family plans this weekend, etc. Plus, my pet ferret is in emergency surgery right now, so I’m rather stressed and worried (not to mention flat-broke!) about that.
Hope to post later this week–thanks for the visits and patience!
Review: 2004 Xia Guan Te Ji Tuo Cha (Sheng Puerh)
September 1, 2006
(Forgive the lack of pictures–Jing Tea Shop has nice ones of this tea up already if you’re interested and follow the link to their site.)
Year: 2004, Spring
Producer: Xia Gua Tea Factory
Region: Shuang Mian tea area
Vendor: Jing Teashop
Leaf: Dry–dark mossy green, tightly compressed, small and broken leaves Wet–shiny, brighter green, largely broken leaves
Scent: Dry scent–very ”bright” and slightly vegetal. Wet scent–”bright” scent remains, also something of a “cooked greens” smell, sort of spinach-esque
Liquour–Colour is orangey-brown but moved to a more appealing golden brown as it lightened. Very smoky scent, slight floral/sweet overtones which increased as the infusions continued. Slight pumpkin-y smell in the background early on.
Infusion Parameters: 5 grams in a 4oz (120mL) gaiwan, boiling water, one 20s rinse followed by brief rest, 20s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 10s, 25s, 45s, 35s, 35s, 45s
Tasting Notes:
Infusion 1: 20s. SMOKE! Very dry–flash of bitterness, then this is gone quickly from the mouth. No truly unpleasant aftertaste, just lots of dry, smoky “bite.” I’ll admit, the hyper-green, hyper-dry, hyper-smoky scent/taste of this first infusion made my stomache flop a little…I was reminded heavily of a green tea steeped for about ten minutes in boiling water.
Infusion 2: 10s/flash infusion. Less smoke in the aroma, less “hyper-green”…same as above, slightly less bite.
Infusion 3: 10s/flash infusion. Notably sweeter (although this is relative with stuff this raw and young!), more ethereal scent, less smoke. More of a pleasant “green” taste, less bitter. Still VERY dry and quick to “vanish” in the mouth.
Infusion 4: 10s/flash infusion. For the first time in this infusion, I can taste a lingering flavour underneath that I think is the elusive “puerh” flavour I’ve tasted in shu puerh. It’s different in the sheng, of course, but I can just on the edge of my mind feel the “connection” between shu and sheng, the familial taste that they share on some level, the taste of the tea. Or, I’m crazy.
Taste/colour/scent more agreeable now, more “bright” smokyness in the aftertaste, somewhat less dry.
Infusion 5: 10s/flash infusion. Scent is very bright and sweet–now there is definitely some sweetness in the tea, too, and much less fleeting dryness. Still some smoke.
Infusion 6: 10s/flash infusion. Thicker “feel” in mouth. Am possibly granted a glimpse of where this puerh could “go” in 10-15 years–I can’t back up this feeling, it’s solely intuitive, but the sheng was very thick and sweet and deep and smooth for just a moment before it “bit” again.
Infusion 7: 10s/flash infusion. “Floral” sweet scent, much sweeter taste. The smoke is pretty well gone but some bite remains.
Infusion 8: 10s/flash infusion. As above, but thinner and with less bite. The thin-ness tells me I can safely increase the infusion time now…
Infusion 9: 25s. This stuff I could happily drink, yum! Interesting dryness, rather like a satisfying white wine–a desirable dryness–is left, taste is sweet and “bright.”
Infusion 10: 45s. The long infusion is due to the fact that I picked up the ferret and started dancing around with him (so sue me, Covenant’s “Call the Ships to Port” came on, and I love that song) and lost track of a few seconds…whoops. See, I’m not professional taster material.
Flavour is still bright, less sweet, more bite and smoke…probably the infusion time.
Infusion 11: 35s. Lighter liquor–really delicious taste. Wish it came out like this from the get-go. Hopefully when it is older…
Infusion 12: 35s. Velvety soft, sweet, now *all* unpleasantness (too much smoke/dryness/bite) is gone. This is lovely.
Infusion 13: 45s. As above, but thinner and more delicate.
I kept on after this for about five more infusions of 35-45 seconds, and it was really marvelous! Not much “changed” in the taste, just got thinner.
Overall notes:
Wow. If the tail infusions of this are the smooth, sweet, depth-of-flavour that I can look forward to in older sheng (either these samples I need to try or my own, someday), then I’m absolutely hooked. It’s fascinating how the taste changes as you go!
I felt just wretched before taking this tea, due to allergies, but much better afterwards…probably just a psychological effect, but I’m not complaining!








